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In 2021, the Boise River Greenbelt turns 52. The legacy Boise’s past leaders left us in the form of the riverside paths reminds me of this ancient Greek proverb: “A society grows great when old men plant trees in whose shade they know they will never sit.” more In 2011, I left Twin Falls—my hometown— and moved to Boise to finish an undergrad degree at Boise State. Right away, I fell in love with the Greenbelt. My first summer in the city, I rode up and down the riverside paths, feeling the cool air blowing off the water, watching the wildlife, and keeping an eye out for potential fishing holes. In modern times the Greenbelt and Boise River are considered staples of life in Boise, but there was a time when locals viewed the river as a nuisance and pumped raw sewage and industrial waste into its waters. A solo Mallard cruises along through the Boise River near Warm Springs in southeast Boise. An Unwanted River In the years before the construction of Lucky Peak Dam in 1955, the Boise River often flooded during spring and was unpredictable, regularly damaging crops and property. In those pre-dam years, the Boise River was inundated with trash, Boise’s sewage waste, and the blood and guts from slaughterhouses located along its banks. By the late 1940s, the city had installed a waste treatment plant and newly created laws forbade dumping trash into the Boise River. Within a year, trout and other wildlife returned to the river in abundance. Over the next 20 years, Boiseans began to see the river as an asset, however, its banks were still filled with piles of trash, old cars, and plenty of poison oak. In 1970, a 12-year-old boy drowned after his raft was snagged by a metal pipe on an irrigation diversion structure. In a massive undertaking during the fall, winter, and spring of 1970-71, several volunteers and organizations including the National Guard helped remove concrete slabs, piping, and various debris from the river to prevent another drowning death. Caption: By 1969, Boiseans had adopted the Boise River Greenbelt plan to preserve our city’s natural beauty for future generations. The Greenbelt is Born The Greenbelt got its start in the early 1960s after a hired consultant recommended the growing city work to grant public access along the Boise River. Consultant Harold E. Atkinson told the mayor and city council that Boise’s population—then at about 58,000—was projected to triple in size by 1985 and that recreational public space should be part of the city’s long-term growth plan. Atkinson said the city should connect the public parks system and grant unlimited access to the rivers banks via a trail system. Boise officially adopted a Boise River Greenbelt plan in 1969, appointing committee members to oversee its function and growth. Through small land exchanges and sales, right-of-ways along the river were secured by the city in preparation for extensions of the trail system. The system grew from downtown Boise to Eagle in the northwest to Lucky Peak in the southeast as adjacent municipalities and counties joined in on the effort. Miles of Activity As a poor college student and slightly less poor adult, the Greenbelt has given me hours of free entertainment outdoors. When the heat from the summer months is unbearable, I wade into the river and fish. I like to load up my bike saddlebags with fishing equipment so I can ride stretches of the greenbelt for exercise and stop at isolated spots so I can fish alone. In total, the Greenbelt offers 46.1 miles to explore, from Lucky Peak to Eagle, and a bicycle is the best way to do it. There’s the Boise Whitewater Park where you can lunch on the rocks and watch kayakers practice. There are the stretches in Ann Morrison, Esther Simplot, and Julia Davis parks where you can lay out a blanket and nap on the expanses of grass. There are the isolated areas on either end of the Greenbelt where you can enjoy the sounds of the splashing river in solitude. Check out this detailed, helpful map to plan your Greenbelt adventure. Kayakers practice their moves at the Boise Whitewater Park a short distance from downtown Boise. Over the years, the City of Boise and its neighbors developed upgrades to the paths. In 2014, the City of Boise started adding bike repair stations where cyclists have access to basic tools and an air pump in the case of a slight breakdown or ruptured innertube. As a rule of thumb, always bring an extra tube and basic tools in a backpack or saddlebags in the case of a flat. This map can help you plan Wildlife Along the Path Our national bird, the Bald Eagle uses the Boise River as a winter migration route. If you’re really lucky, you might see a Peregrine falcon hunting while traversing the Greenbelt. Geese, ducks, and the majestic Great Blue Heron also frequent the river. In the stretch of the river along the Greenbelt, plenty of Mountain Whitefish, Rainbow Trout, Wild Trout, and fingerling Brown Trout can be caught. Special rules apply to certain sections of the stream, so check out the Idaho Fishing Planner before you head out and try your luck. The Morrison Knudson Nature Center, located just off the Greenbelt at Kristin Armstrong Park in Boise, hosts wild habitat for deer, fox, and mink and a variety of wildfowl. View windows on the Nature Center’s Streamwalk Loop allow an underwater view of rainbow trout and the Sturgeon Pond shows the majestic, ancient fish moving slowly through the water. Through viewing windows, visitors to the MK Nature Preserve can observe underwater wildlife like this trout. Greenbelt Safety In my experience, the Greenbelt is safe if you stick to daytime hours. I’ve often ridden at night alone and haven’t had any bad experiences. Police do patrol the paths and sometimes they get a bit of civilian help. Years ago, in 2013 I worked as an intern with Boise Weekly and wrote a story about a little old lady named Ruth Neal, who volunteered for the Greenbelt Patrol for years by walking a stretch near downtown Boise, reporting lawbreakers and suspicious activity to the police. The Boise Greenbelt patrol was started in 1988 and the city still accepts applications each year from Oct.1 through November 30 to help patrol and report. To apply as a volunteer, you must be at least 21, not have any criminal convictions (no felonies allowed), and undergo a 30-minute interview. If approved, you start volunteering the following spring when traffic on the Greenbelt begins to pick up.

There’s just something wonderful about that combination of bread, cheese, and tomato sauce that makes pizza so alluring. And it’s highly customizable. You can pretty much throw anything on and toss it in the oven. I’ve eaten hundreds of pizzas—both fresh and frozen—and nothing compares to a pizza fresh from a wood-fired oven. After watching several YouTube videos of Italian pizza makers and their mouthwatering techniques, my girlfriend and I decided to build our own oven as cheaply as possible using materials from the hardware store. more From the research I’ve done, you need to heat an oven space up to 800 degrees Fahrenheit and cook the pizza for 90 seconds if you want to have true Neapolitan pizza. It goes without saying that you must also use fresh pizza dough, sauce, mozzarella, basil, and olive oil. It also doesn’t hurt if you gesture passionately with your hands while explaining your favorite recipe to friends. A Brief History of Pizza Pizza originated in Naples, Italy, and was considered uncultured to eat until the first unified Italian Queen Margherita developed a fondness for the dish while visiting the city in 1889. Pizza was a cuisine specific to Naples until the early 20th century when Italian immigrants brought their cooking knowledge to New York City and opened America’s first pizza parlors. After WW2, Italians migrated further throughout the United States and abroad, bringing their pizza with them and turning the once regional food into an international staple. The Traditional Neapolitan Oven To replicate the perfect Neapolitan pizza at home, my girlfriend and I needed to get our oven pretty hot, 700 degrees on the surface and 1000 degrees on the oven roof. Pizza should cook in 60-to-90 seconds in those conditions. Traditional Neapolitan ovens are dome-shaped, made of brick, and have a smallish opening to add firewood and pizza. Smoke is channeled through a chimney near the roof. It’s best to use non-resinous firewood in a traditional oven. Denser, dried woods like beech and oak work great since they burn hotter. You can also use fruitwoods like apple or pecan for additional smells and flavors. Wood should be dry, but not lower than 15 percent moisture content because, like green wood, wood that’s too dry can cause extra smoke. Check out this thorough pizza oven wood guide from Forno Bravo if you’re thinking of building or purchasing a legitimate traditional Neapolitan setup, or are following our low-cost method. Our Neapolitan Oven With the magic of YouTube, I was able to see other pizza oven builds, like this one from ChefSteps that used bricks for construction. The problem with the ChefSteps build is the high heat directly underneath the pizza from the fire. I modified their design so the finished pizza wasn’t burnt underneath and cooked evenly. We didn’t have a laser thermometer, so it was going to take a bit of trial and error to get our pizzas just right. As the saying goes, there’s no such thing as bad pizza, so if we screwed anything up, we could just eat the results. The Build (see materials list at bottom) We first arranged the four cinder blocks into a square pattern as a platform for the oven so it wouldn’t burn the concrete. Then we laid one of the squares of concrete on the cinder blocks as a base, propped up one piece for the back part of the oven and two more on both sides of the base for walls. We then stacked four bricks on the inside of each sidewall as a platform for our homemade pizza stone, which for price and convenience’s sake ended up being two pieces of slate tile we cut to fit the inside of the oven. If you use the same material, make sure the slate is unglazed or you could be adding some stomach-turning carcinogens to your diet. I didn’t want to have the fire directly under the slate, so we cut the back piece of slate to be shorter to allow a larger gap in the back of the oven for flames and proper air circulation. As you can see from the photo above, the flames have about 6 inches of space in the back, which also allows hot air from to fire to circulate over the top of the pizza. Once we cut and prepared our oven fuel—in this case, store bundled pine firewood—we got a fire going and prepared the first pizza. Pizza #1 We fed the fire for about an hour, warming the oven before we started. My lovely girlfriend cracked the code on a green thai curry recipe, and we used some leftovers and vegan cheese to make our first pizza. We quickly realized we hadn’t gotten the oven hot enough and had made the pizza crust too thick as the pizza took about 15 minutes to cook. Even after all of that time, we still ended up with undercooked pizza, but like all pizza good or bad, we ate it anyway. Pizza #2 Next go-round we made a margherita inspired pizza with a thinner crust and faux vegan cheese, topping it off with some Thai basil we had leftover from our recent Thai curry cookoffs. By this time, we had a larger coal base and I added one large piece of wood for a larger flame. By now I was learning that a bunch of coals underneath and a fairly larger flame from the big piece of wood made for plenty of heat on top. The dough on pizza number two rose significantly faster this time, but the pizza still turned out undercooked. Pizza #3 Here’s the key to getting a great pizza in this style of oven: the right amount of heat, how that heat is distributed, and thin crust. We had the first two parts nailed down, but we knew for our third and final trial, we needed to thin out the crust. The third pizza was also margherita inspired pizza, and the pizza oven was so hot by now, that the crust began to rise within seconds. We could see the sauce and cheese bubble and the smell of the sauce, cheese, and crust was spectacular. For a moment, I thought I was in some alternate dimension vegan Naples. The final pizza was cooked in about two minutes and we were in awe that we’d cooked a pie that closely resembled the local Neapolitan style we’d eaten in Italy and stateside. Now we had to taste the thing and we weren’t disappointed. When I took bites of the succulent pie, the combination of tomato, and cheese, and crispy dough filled my head with the swells of an Italian opera and for a moment I thought I had become an honorary Italian pizza chef. What I Learned Here’s what you need to know to make awesome pizza in your new oven: It takes about an hour to get enough coals to heat the oven properly. You need hot coals underneath and a decent flame from a fresh piece of large wood to provide the right balance of heat from the bottom and top of the oven. Make that crust super thin if you’re wanting Neapolitan-style pizza. You can still cook thicker-crust pizza, but you’ll need to experiment with lower heats and cook longer. Pine works fine for cooking pizza in the oven, but if you have access to denser woods or even fruitwoods, use those varieties instead. The pine didn’t seem to negatively impact the flavor, however. Exposure to direct flame will likely cause your pizza stone to crack. In our oven, the slate piece near the back of the oven and the open flame did crack on one corner. Try to build at least 6 inches of flame and air space in the back of the oven. Don’t hesitate to experiment. Modify your design and go with what works best. Your friends and family will love you for it and you’ll be a local pizza folk hero. Materials List (4) 16" by 24" Stepping Stones: $32 (6) Bricks: $9 (4) Cinder Blocks: $10 (2) 12" by 24" Unglazed Slate Tiles: $14

To some folks, saving $30 by changing your own oil isn’t worth it. I grew up poor, and an extra $30 in the family budget meant we could afford the finer things in life like VHS rentals and supermarket ice cream. Though I’m in my thirties now and can afford to have someone else do an oil change for me, I still like to save money and get the bragging rights that come with being a self-reliant, grab life by the horns kinda guy. I do it for the thrills. more To some folks, saving $30 by changing your own oil isn’t worth it. I grew up poor, and an extra $30 in the family budget meant we could afford the finer things in life like VHS rentals and supermarket ice cream. Though I’m in my thirties now and can afford to have someone else do an oil change for me, I still like to save money and get the bragging rights that come with being a self-reliant, grab life by the horns kinda guy. I do it for the thrills. In all seriousness, changing your own oil is really easy and quick if you have the right equipment and space for the, plus the savings are pretty great too. Here’s an example. My 2014 Subaru Outback’s four liter engine used 0W-30 full synthetic oil. It costs me about $85 for an oil change at a service shop. If I head down to the local auto parts store, I can score five gallons of oil for about $28 and an oil filter for $10. I end up saving $47. What You'll Need To get started, you’ll need the following: -Oil (Price Varies) -Oil Filter (Price Varies) - A basic wrench set ($14.99) - An oil drip pain ($13.99) -Oil Filter Wrench (10.99 -Oil Funnel ($3.99) -Shop Towels ($2.79) - Jack Stands ($54.99) Note: The clearance on my Subaru is pretty high so I don’t need to elevate my car using jack stands or ramps. Also, if you need to buy the gear, you can reuse it several times so it’s not a bad initial investment. Step 1: Check Oil & Condition This may seem obvious, but checking your oil regularly and especially prior to an oil change can help you diagnose any major issues like leaks. If your oil level is extremely low, check for spotting under your parked car and have a mechanic take a look. Remember oil lubricates, cleans, and cleans essential components in your engine so having low or dirty fluid can be a stepping stone to an extremely expensive repair bill or new car loan. Check that oil regularly. Step 2: Heat Up The Oil Like Maverick Automotive Technician Kyle Mattson says in the video above, engine oil is like maple syrup: it flows slowly when cold and quickly when warm. The idea is to allow your vehicle to run up to five minutes to allow the engine oil to warm up and be able to flow into the oil drip pan. But be careful not to try to change the oil if your car has been running for a long time. The oil coming out of the engine can be hot and burn your hands and forearms. I guess oil is also like porridge, you want to get it just right. Step 3: Elevate Your Vehicle Like I said earlier, I don’t have to raise my Subaru because it has a higher clearance. If you drive a sedan or a model with low clearance, you’re going to need access to the oil plug and filter. You can drive your car up on ramps, but you must be extremely careful to block your tires and use the emergency brake. The same rules apply to using jack stands. Safety is paramount. The absolute last thing you want is to be crushed to death by a Honda Civic. Step 4: Position Oil Drip Pan and Remove Oil Plug Oil spills are a pain to clean up and are quite toxic to the environment, so do your absolute best to get all of your spent oil into the oil drip pan. Make sure you have one large enough. Also, do not forget to open the main and vent plugs so the oil flows smoothly into the container. When removing the oil plug, loosen it with a wrench until it can be fully removed by hand. Try to catch the plug once it’s released since it can go rolling away or end up blocking the oil flow into the drip pan. Step 5: Remove Old Oil Filter, Install New Once the last amounts of oil have dripped from the engine into the collection pan, twist off the oil filter with a hand or oil filter wrench. If the last mechanic to work on your car did their job right, you should be able to loosen and twist off the filter by hand. Make sure the oil pan is underneath the filter site to catch oil drippings. Before installing a new filter, rub a dab of clean oil on the circular rubber portion of the new filter to help it seal properly. The new filter should be tightened by hand. Step 6: Replace the Oil Plug Using your hand, screw the oil plug back in, then snug it up with a few twists of a wrench. Don’t go overboard on the tightening, especially if you’ll be removing it again later. This can help reduce the amount of obscenities you’ll shout in anger. Step 6: Add the New Oil After you’ve determined the amount of oil needed for your engine, use a funnel and slowly add the fresh, clean oil to your engine. I like to think my engine feels the same way I do after getting a much needed shower. Step 7: Check Oil Level, Run Engine, Then Check Again As stated earlier, oil viscosity changes with heat. Oil dipstick will have two small holes or indicators that show how much oil is in the engine, so check your level, then run your vehicle for a few minutes and check again to make sure you got a good reading. Step 8: Glory Over Your Deeds Congratulations! You just changed your own oil. You’re on a higher level than everyone around you. Soon you’ll scoff and turn your nose up at people in line at the service shop. The time in your life when you sat in the service lobby making awkward conversations with strangers is a thing of the past. On behalf of everyone here at Maverick. We salute you!

In the mid 1860s, at its peak during the gold rush, Idaho City was the biggest city in the northwest with about 200 businesses and 7,000 residents. If you’ve been to the small mountain town in the last 130 years, you’ve probably noticed it’s changed a bit. With about 500 residents, according to the 2010 census, Idaho City is a remote stop along scenic Highway 21. But even during the blisteringly cold winter months, Idaho City is the base camp of memory for adventure seekers like myself who crave the beauty and peaceful solitude of Idaho’s mountainous wild. more So after snatching up a few pairs of snowshoes during our weekly Costco visit, my girlfriend and I decided to enjoy a winter slice of outdoor Idaho on the trails just north of the small mountain town. The trails near Idaho City provide great access to more isolated areas in the backcountry. Busy Day Outside It was a Saturday and sunny with plenty of snow in mid-January. As you can imagine, the big parking lot for Whoop Em’ Up trailhead was packed with trucks towing snowmobile trailers. Boiseans snowshoeing or nordic skiing on the nearby trail clogged the entrance in and out of the lot, and we decided to leave after a lady yelled at me for allegedly blocking her from getting out with her huge snowmobile rig. I defend my parking choice. My father is a truck driver, I know what space she needed. Anyhow, I didn’t want any trouble so I headed just down the road where there was a small pull-out parking lot on the right with trail access and an available space. (Make sure you get a Park N’ Ski Pass before you head up to the trails, otherwise you could be fined by the Boise County sheriff’s deputies) Into the Quiet Woods We pulled on our snowgear and snowshoes, first following a nearby snowmobile trail and occasionally seeing a pair of snowshoers, we soon found ourselves alone with the only sound being the crunching snow under our feet and the buzz of a snowmobile in the distance. We looked up at the snow-covered hills on all sides and chose a nearby summit to ascend. The snowshoes offer an immense advantage traversing snow compared to trying to get through in boots, but I couldn’t imagine walking all day in snow that deep, even with modern gear. I wondered if Shoshone natives or any other tribes made their way into the mountains during winter on hunting expeditions in snow shoes during near zero degree temperatures. The climb was difficult. My athletic vegan girlfriend set the pace and I heaved and sweated up and down hills leaning on my poles and trying to stay abreast of the deep snow. My hat was soaked with sweat and I steamed like a clam when we reached the summit and I pulled off my coat for relief. But it was all worth it. The view toward the Atlanta/Grandjean side of the Sawtooth Range was breathtaking with the snow creating contrasts of white, green, and gray on the sea of evergreens and distant mountain peaks. My modern snowshoes look like they're based on a modified “Bear Paw” traditional design. A Brief History of Snowshoes Snowshoes are believed to have been invented and first used 4,000 years ago in Central Asia. They were first designed as a solid piece of wood with a simple foot strap made of animal skin. People wearing snowshoes likely crossed the Bering Land bridge and are the ancestors of Native American tribes. Several different designs for all types of snow conditions and depth have been used throughout the centuries. Check out this snowshoe design guide from Snowshoe Magazine. The modern snowshoes we bought from Costco are smaller in width and length than traditional snowshoe designs, and I think wider traditional designs offer a better float on the snow and are better suited for long distance travel. From what I can tell, modern snowshoes are based on a modified “Bear Paw” design. Sweating in the Snow I can’t imagine trying to traverse several miles through deep snow in our modern snowshoes. My shirt and hat were soaked with sweat. The snowshoes didn’t provide much float above the snow, and if I had to travel several miles, they might have found my remains the next spring. We reached the top of the hill and I couldn’t help but pack a few snowballs for an assault on the camerawoman. Once back to the car, we warmed ourselves with the heater, but I shivered on the drive back home until I was relieved by a hot shower. Despite the cold and having to stuff my face with mixed nuts due to the intense workout of uphill climbing in the snowshoes, I loved the experience. We are really lucky to live in Boise, a mere hour away from pristine wilderness. If you get really ambitious, you can even tow a toboggan into the backwoods and do some winter camping with a roaring fire under the stars. But for those just looking for a great way to get outdoors on a Saturday during the winter, snowshoeing is highly recommended. Just make sure you have plenty of warm, moisture-wicking winter gear, pack snacks, have a solid game plan before you head out so you don’t turn a day in the snowy woods into a search and rescue operation. If you don’t have snowshoes, most ski shops rent them for pretty cheap, and they don’t require the learning curve involved with other winter sports like Nordic skiing.

It’s official. I can’t be a member of Idaho Jeep Girls for two glaring reasons: I don’t own a Jeep and I’m not a girl. Despite my attempts at haggling and offering to trade in my Subaru for the famed four-wheel drive, nothing could convince members to let me join. Alas, I’ll have to find another group that will take me. Maybe the Shriners are recruiting... more But for Idaho ladies who do own Jeeps, the club is a great way to forge lifetime friendships and learn in a comfortable, accepting environment. Education Without Embarrassment Jennifer Parks Kau started Idaho Jeep Girls in 2017. She wanted to create a welcoming group where women could empower and educate each other without any strings attached. “The main reason I started with is so women could ask a question and not be worried about the intent of the answer,” she said. “The club is a safe place. You can ask any question and you’re not gonna be made fun of.” Caption: Jennfier Parks Kau started Idaho Jeep Girls in 2017 so fellow women could share their love of the sport. Leading the Pack On a cold winter day in mid-December, I rode with Parks Kau as she led four of the club’s admins up snowy, pine-tree lined Harris Creek Road from Horseshoe Bend to Placerville. The entire ride, Parks Kau and the other women stayed in close communication via their walkie talkies warning each other about icy terrain and a rear-end accident where sheriff’s deputies and first responders were on the scene. I joked around with Parks Kau’s two young kids who asked plenty of questions from their carseats in the back of their mother’s seafoam green wood-paneled 2014 Rubicon JK Unlimited. The big Jeep has had a laundry list of upgrades since she bought it from Maverick in June of 2016, including but not limited to 37 inch tires, a five inch lift, a large overhead rack with tools, a rollout awning and snorkel, two rear mounted gas tanks, and a J33PGRL license plate. With her setup, Parks Kau might be able to take over a small country. And after spending 45 minutes in the passenger seat with her, I could tell how her mix of fierce independence and empathy makes her a natural leader. Idaho Jeep Girls admins from left to right: Rose Martin, April Cameron, Jennifer Parks Kau, Shaun Carr, and Audriana Cole. Idaho Jeep Girls admins from left to right: Rose Martin, April Cameron, Jennifer Parks Kau, Shaun Carr, and Audriana Cole. In fact, her nickname in the group is “Fearless Leader.” Parks Kau, a Meridian native, drove her stepdad’s 1967 Jeep Wagoneer when she was 15-years-old. “It was the only vehicle I had access to,” she said. It wasn’t until years later when Parks Kau when she bought a 2007 JK Unlimited that she started to get into the Jeep lifestyle. Since then, she owned two other models excluding her current rig. Jeeping is such a passion for Parks Kau, that her fiance recently proposed to her with a 1970 Wagoneer. “It’s my engagement ring,” she joked. The Idaho Jeep Club admin entourage heads down a snowy mountain pass to Placerville, ID. A Club for Women Up in Placerville, the girls and I took a much needed bathroom break and talked about what the club has meant to their lives. Audriana Cole, now one of six administrators for the club since joining in 2017. She inherited her 1999 Jeep Wrangler from her grandfather as a high school graduation present in 2011. “I’ve driven it ever since,” she said. Cole said she enjoys trail stewardship and being able to connect with Idaho’s natural beauty. “Being a Jeep girl means getting out in nature and having the comradery anyone would expect from a group of friends,” she said. Another club admin, Shaun Carr, drives a 2015 charcoal grey Rubicon and goes by the nickname “Den Mom” because she brings “lots of food” and “all of the extra stuff that nobody ever brings.” Carr was the second member to join Idaho Jeep Girls. She said as a single mom of one son, she wants to be a strong role model and bought a Jeep to show her son that women can be “just as badass as men.” Club members can get an official window sticker after joining. How to Join Joining Idaho Jeep Girls is pretty simple. You can request membership to the Facebook page by having a Jeep, female anatomy, and by pledging to be “drama free.” As of January 21, 2021, the group has 886 members. “About 100 of those are active members and participate in trails runs and stuff like that,” Parks Kau said. “I never advertised the club. There are just plenty of women in Idaho who own Jeeps.” Upon joining the club, members can get a trademarked window sticker designed by Parks Kau, and they are notified about upcoming events via the Facebook group page. But for now, like plenty of other things, COVID has put a damper on group activities. “Once we can get together again, we’ll start hosting events and ladies who go out with us on the trail can earn their nicknames,” she said.

Crossing deep snow is a pain in the you-know-what. Since our ancestors didn’t have four-wheel drives and Whole Foods with stocked shelves, they were forced to invent efficient ways to cross snow effectively to hunt and forage. In modern Russia, archaeologists have found skis that date back as far as 8,000 BCE, so the method has been around for a while. Always looking for new ways to get sore muscles, my girlfriend and I decided to try out some skate skiing. But before we get into that fiasco, let’s start with the basics. more What is skate skiing? Skate skiing evolved from traditional nordic skiing, becoming popular in the 1970s. Like road bike tires, skate skis are skinnier than regular cross country skis and are built for speed. For detailed info about ski sizing and the right gear, check out this guide from Salomon. But don’t think you can just hop on any old snow and start skating like you’re Tonya Harding. Skate skiing requires groomed trails. Lucky for you, Idaho has plenty of groomed trails to choose from with 17 Park n’ Ski areas across the Gem State in addition to those managed by ski resorts and local governments. Bogus Basin or the groomed trails near Idaho City are the nearest spots for Boiseans. Classic vs Skate Skiing The skis uncovered by archaeologists in modern Russia could be considered classic cross country skis, though they are probably much different from the nordic skis people use today. A lot has changed since 8,000 years ago, including access to post-ski showering. But anyhow, classic cross country skiing involves gliding one foot, then the other forward to create movement. Skate skiing, much like its name suggests, involves a skating movement pushing out from left to right using the skis’ inside edges and making a V shape with the skis. Simply put, skate skiing takes practice and finesse, but you also move faster once you figure it out. Traditional Nordic skiing is a great way to get some winter exercise, but it can be slower than skate skiing. How to Skate Ski Cross Country As a kid in the 1990s, I spent many hours on rollerblades at the local skating rink. I refined my rollerblading skills and held hands with cute girls when the DJ played Boyz II Men. Looking back, I was sure my vast experience would make me a fast pro at skate skiing. Brimming with confidence, my lovely lady and I drove up to Bogus Basin in late December to try out our newly purchased skate skis and boots on their nordic trails. We were both glad to be out of the house and in the sunshine, high above the inversion and blistering cold of Boise. After purchasing our tickets at the Frontier Point Lodge for $12 a piece, we snapped into our skinny skis and began heading up the Nordic Highway. Immediately, I realized skate skiing was going to be a bit tougher than the sweet bladin’ I’d done back in the 90s. I fell right away and continued to do so throughout the next few hours. If you’re not trying to return home covered in bruises and with socks full of snow, check out this great skate ski technique video from Nordic Ski Labs, an instructional organization put together by three Canadian cross country ski coaches. Propelling yourself with ski poles is a dangerous venture without the proper technique. More than once, I tried to push myself forward on the inside of my skis, tripping myself and going down hard on the groomed trail. As I began to get my footing, I watched other skate skiers pass us gracefully, pushing out off the edge of their skis right then left, even moving uphill with ease. After another series of spills, a kind stranger stopped on the trail and instructed us on proper technique. The stranger instructed me to maintain an athletic stance on the balls of my feet, then shift my center of gravity over each ski with my knees as I pushed out with my left, then right foot. After heeding his advice,  I actually started to move pretty quickly down the trail. I celebrated too early though and ate it in front of some elementary kids. Bogus Basin has breathtaking views from its Nordic Highway trail. Should You Try It? While there was some swearing and sweating involved during my first few attempts at skate skiing, I gave it two thumbs up, well four including my girlfriend's hands. She complained less but didn’t move much faster. I enjoyed the views up at Bogus, the fresh air, and the vitamin D gleaned from the sunshine. The day we went up, an inversion covered Boise with a layer of clouds, but I could see the mountains up beyond the ski resort and snow speckled Shadow Butte to the east. According to my Apple Watch, I burned about 740 calories on one trip down the easy rated Nordic Highway and back. I think I overexerted myself because I pushed mainly with my poles due to my inexperience. After two of these trips up the easy trail and back, I was completely exhausted and drenched in sweat. If it wasn’t for the heated seats in my Subaru, I’d have been hypothermic by the time I’d gotten down from the mountain. There’s nothing like a hot shower and meal after a winter day out in the elements. Don’t be like me. Check out some instructional videos and get skate ski lessons from the fine folks at Bogus Basin before you give this winter sport your all.

Famed financial guru, Dave Ramsey, says you shouldn’t buy a new car “unless you’re a millionaire.” According to a study of 10,000 millionaires, he said, the people questioned in the study said they did not buy a new car in the years leading up to their financial success. “They just said, ‘We’re not putting our money in crap that goes down in value and then scratch our heads and wonder why we’re not millionaires,’” Ramsey said. more Ramsey’s advice is helpful for people looking for long-term, reliable transportation without the value depreciation that comes with buying brand new. This infographic by Edmunds illustrates a new car’s value depreciation over five years. If you decide to go the used route, following the tips below can help your wallet, your sanity, and provide you satisfaction years down the road. Look at your budget Used vehicles can still be quite expensive and you don’t want to get sunk into a loan that has you wringing your hands when the payment is due each month. Take a realistic look at your income and expenses to see what you can afford before you sign away several years and thousands of dollars of income on a vehicle you can’t afford. If you’re looking to avoid a loan and have cash saved for your new ride, make sure your purchase allows you to keep some money set aside for repair emergencies that could otherwise leave you stranded. If you haven’t already, sit down and compare your income and expenses before making a big purchase. Establish your needs Before you start poking through used car lots, think about what your used vehicle will be doing for you. Are you looking for a daily commuter? A first car for your teenager? Maybe a weekend toy for camping, off-roading, or finding a hidden fishing hole? Working with thousands of folks over the years, the fine employees at Maverick have seen what makes people happy in the long run. Thinking about how your new vehicle will be used most helps you narrow your search list and is far more likely to provide you with more long-term satisfaction. Check the ratings Now that you’ve decided what type of vehicle you’re looking to purchase, have a look at the ratings of the models offered in that style using review sites like Edmunds. Even if you’re looking at something as obscure and old as a 1990 Geo Metro, you can rely on Edmunds’ user reviews to give you first-hand information about reliability and performance. Worried about the availability of parts for a model you’re looking at? The internet can be a wonderful tool. Sites like Parts Market have a vast inventory of body, mechanical, interior, electrical, and suspension parts so your used purchase can stay on the road until flying cars finally make their debut. Sites like Edmunds have excellent car review tools so you can make sure the model you’re after performs well. Scope out used cars The debate rages on whether you should buy from a used dealership or from a private seller. A private seller may have a documented maintenance history and be willing to part with their vehicle for a lower price. A dealership does offer financing options if you don’t have ready cash and dealerships also have a reputation to uphold, so it’s unlikely that they’d sell you a lemon for fear of losing potential future business. In the age of the internet, you can also check dealership reviews to see how customers rated their experiences. Either way, there are several private sellers online and used dealerships in the Boise area, so you should have plenty of choices. Get the Vehicle History Report Every vehicle on our lot has an available history report and we can’t emphasize enough the importance of this step. History reports contain information like odometer rollbacks or a salvage title, meaning the car was previously wrecked and declared a total loss by an insurance company. You’ll need the vehicle’s VIN number for these reports. Try popular sites like AutoCheck and CarFax to access these reports or you could end up paying for a junker that gives you more grief than relief. Compare prices Afraid of being swindled and overpaying for a used car? Use that fear as motivation to do your homework and use tools like Kelly Blue Book, which allows you to look at the price range the model you’re looking at sells for. For instance, my 2014 Subaru Outback sells for around $12,000, but that’s assuming the car’s mileage is around 96,000 and the interior and exterior are in excellent condition (I have 160,000 miles on mine with plenty of dents and scratches) Complete a Test-Drive You’re the one who’ll be driving the vehicle each day. Just because it looks cool and will make you the envy of your cohorts, doesn’t mean you’ll enjoy spending hours behind the wheel. A lengthy test drive assures you’re comfortable in the vehicle and like how it handles. This goes without saying, but you’ll need a valid driver’s license and insurance, unless the dealership or seller you’re working with doesn’t mind being complicit in a misdemeanor. Have a Mechanic Take a Look As Schoolhouse Rock taught me years ago: “Knowledge is power!” Though you may not want to fork out extra dough for services, a professional mechanic can make sure your potential vehicle is mechanically sound and provide you with much needed buying confidence. Also, don’t put too much faith in your overly confident uncle. Make sure you consult a professional, experienced mechanic. Having a professional mechanic look at a used car before buying helps ensure your investment is sound. If you can’t afford a mechanic or are more confident than the average Jane or Joe, here’s a short list of things to watch out for when inspecting a used car: -Check the window sticker for warranty or “as is” information -Check the body for rust, which can spread quickly -Examine glass for fractured or pocked areas -Test wipers and windshield fluid -Push down on each corner to check suspension -Test lights and examine lens condition -Check tire tread and alignment -Test brakes during drive (they should be responsive, not spongy) -Make sure interior instruments work -Check the interior roof for water stains -Examine hoses and belts for cracks and wear -Listen to the engine carefully -Make sure the battery is free of residue -Check oil, radiator, and transmission fluid for cleanliness -Look for oil or other fluid leaks under the vehicle -Feel the tailpipe for residue (black and greasy means burnt oil) -Get under the vehicle to check for damage and/or repair work Prepare to negotiate If you’re not shopping at Maverick Car Company, where we have set prices based on Kelly Blue Book and comparison to hundreds of like models for sale, be prepared to haggle for the price you’re willing to pay. Set a spending limit and make an opening offer less than this price. You should already know the average price for the vehicle you’re looking at buying if you’ve followed this guide. Don’t be intimidated by bargaining. Have a set spending range and do your homework. Iron Out the Details When buying privately, make sure the vehicle’s owner signs over the title for a valid sale. To be extra cautious, check with the Department of Motor Vehicles to make sure there aren’t any past-due registration fees you’d be stuck paying for if you bought the car to register in your name. In Idaho, however, registration is tied directly to the plates when you register a car you’ve purchased, so you don’t need to worry about that in the Gem State. If going the dealership route, you’ll probably get offered extended warranties, service agreements, and be charged various fees, whether legitimate or not. Read your contract carefully. Don’t be pressured to hurry through this process and don’t be afraid to ask plenty of questions. When going the loan route, you’ll need to maintain full coverage insurance until the loan is paid in full and the title is in your possession. At that point, you can opt for liability insurance. Regardless of your purchasing choice, you must register the vehicle, insure it, and have full driving privileges before you hit the road unless you like spending time and money at the courthouse.

After donning my climbing shoes and tightening my harness, I attached myself to an auto belay carabiner, grasped a nearby outcropping, and began pulling myself up a 45-foot wall at The Commons climbing gym. Halfway up the knobby embankment, I was out of breath, my forearms burned and my fingers ached as I searched frantically for footholds below like I was climbing a prison wall to freedom. Also, I knew there was a climber watching me from a bench below and I certainly wasn’t going to look like a wuss, so I forged on to the top. more My first solo rappel seconds before I tripped and fell, bruising my ego more than anything else. I’m no seasoned climber, the most climbing I’ve done involves climbing the scoreboard on Tetris. Where I grew up in Twin Falls, my friends climbed on basalt walls in the Snake River Canyon, but I had other priorities, like eating junk food and watching daytime television. So given my lack of experience, my second ascent that day was even tougher. On my second attempt, beads of sweat formed on my brow and I felt slightly ill. I nearly let go at several spots on the wall. Still I was determined to keep climbing and despite my rubbery forearms, I made it to the top for a second time. Rebuilding From Scratch My struggle up the climbing wall at The Commons is similar to the gym’s origin story. The gym exists because a community of tight-knit, tenacious climbers refused to give up after their old climbing gym, Urban Ascent, was bulldozed to make way for an affordable housing project in 2018. Urban Ascent before it was demolished in 2018. The site is now a parking lot for affordable housing. (Photo Courtesy of Mary DeWalt) In its heyday, Urban Ascent was second home to over 600 members deeply connected by their love of the sport, including Clinton Colwell, who worked as the gym’s manager. Colwell and fellow climbers were told they’d have several month’s notice before their gym would be closed to make room for an affordable housing project planned by the city. But Boise broke ground far earlier than expected in May 2018 and abruptly told Urban Ascent they’d have to shut their doors. That spring, Colwell told The Statesman that “people are going to survive and be fine, but it will leave a pretty big gap.” Refusing to give up, Colwell said hundreds of people in the climbing circle came to him and his Urban Ascent peers asking them to take action and open a new gym. “A group of us from that community decided to pool our resources,” Colwell said. The Commons Co-Owner Clinton Colwell started climbing when he moved to Boise to complete a master’s degree in Geophysics. Before my climb, Colwell, now one of seven co-owners of The Commons—which includes two engineers, a librarian, a general contractor, a doctor, and another former Urban Ascent manager—explained the deep interpersonal connections climbing fosters. “Climbing by its very nature is community based,” he said. “You generally need partners to climb, so you develop these deep lifetime friendships.” Colwell and the six co-owners paid $850,000 for two separate office buildings on Emerald Street near its intersection with Orchard Avenue on the bench in Boise. During construction, the two buildings were fused to create the The Commons. “We raised one of the buildings 45 feet on the outside, but we were able to go down three feet, so we have 48 feet in here,” Colwell said, referring to the bigger part of the building where we talked. The smaller side of the gym, which has 19 foot high walls, contains bouldering space. Bouldering involves climbing shorter sections of wall and doesn’t require a harness and belay partner. Near the bouldering section, the gym houses traditional gym equipment and a yoga/dance studio. Throughout my conversation with Colwell, drills could be heard in the background, the work of “setters” who regularly move foot and handholds on the walls to form new climbing routes. Several setters busy at work. Foot and hand holds are repositioned regularly to offer new climbing challenges. Colwell said 20 months after Urban Ascent was bulldozed, the climbing community triumphed when The Commons officially opened its doors on February 20, 2020. But a new challenge lurked just around the corner for Colwell and his partners, and it would again take the continued supportive spirit of the climbing community to overcome. Coming Together Through COVID COVID was a nauseating cheap shot to the gut for The Commons and its members. The gym had scarcely been open for a month before it was shuttered for the initial quarantine lockdown. Gym Co-Owner Mary DeWalt— who’s an avid climber and director of the Ada Community Library—told me the gym stayed alive in 2020 because people in the climbing community look out for each other. Sarah Jareczek teaches me how to belay properly. Unfortunately, I had no climbing partner to practice with. Despite not being able to even use the brand new gym facilities during three months of quarantine lockdown, she said, most members kept paying their monthly dues allowing the fledgling gym to make its mortgage payments. “We are just so amazed by the community,” she said. “People had an option and we were happy to freeze memberships but a huge majority were happy to continue their memberships because they knew the situation we were in.” The Commons opened again in May and when I visited in November and December, masks and social distancing were in effect with no more than 60 people allowed in the building at the same time. “There are some days where we get close to that 60 but we haven’t had any situations where we’ve had to stop people at the door,” DeWalt said. She said climbers take COVID seriously and look out for each other, following gym protocols of social distancing and wearing masks throughout sessions. Through sheer luck, climbers at indoor gyms may also have an extra level of protection against transmission of the virus. Climbers train to tackle epic routes in the traditional gym section of The Commons. A September 2020 study, conducted by researchers at De Montfort University in England concluded that the loose climbing chalk—calcium or magnesium carbonate—used to keep climber’s hands dry eliminates 99 percent of a virus similar to COVID-19 within one minute of contact. Life After the Pandemic The Commons was created to be a place where people could come together. For obvious reasons, COVID threw a wrench in several plans for community events. “The thing we are really missing is the social aspect,” DeWalt said. “People can chat standing apart with masks on, but it’s not quite the same.” She said during the four weeks The Commons was opened before COVID, the gym held a variety of events including a presentation from a geologist on rock variety in the Boise area, bird conservation in climbing spots, and climbing film screenings. (Caption: Climbers had about four weeks to experience The Commons before it was closed in March 2020 for COVID lockdown. Courtesy of Mary DeWalt) When COVID vaccinations are dispersed and the pandemic subsides—hopefully early in 2021—DeWalt said the gym continues to host events and further build on the existing climbing community. “It’s funny because we have all these great ideas, but we’re just not able to do anything right now,” she said. But despite the restrictions from COVID, people are still joining the ranks at The Commons. During recovery from my tough solo ascents at the gym in December, I ran into Nathan Duncanson, a Boise transplant from the Tennessee/Arkansas area who was getting ready to tackle some routes. He said he started climbing in Boy Scouts and later became an instructor. “Now I just do it for fun a couple days a week because I can,” Duncanson said. He said he climbs at The Commons because there usually aren’t large crowds of people and the routes are challenging and fun. Nathan Duncanson uses an auto belay to ascend a 45-foot wall in preparation for outdoor climbing this spring. “The setters do a fantastic job,” he said. Compared to what is available in the flatter, eastern half of the U.S., Duncanson said, Boiseans have great access to indoor and outdoor climbing spots. “You’ve got routes within a three hour drive,” he said. “I used to have to drive seven or eight hours back home to get any sort of good climbing and now it’s just down the road.”

For the last six years, since my 2014 Subaru Outback rolled out of the factory, that yellow orb in the sky we affectionately call the sun has conspired to destroy my car’s headlights. You see, despite the sun being 93 million miles away, it emits harmful ultraviolet rays that burn my fair Irish skin and erode the plastic on my car’s headlights giving them a hazy, foggy appearance. Fortunately my fellow homosapiens have developed easily accessible technology to cure ailing headlights. With this in mind, I headed down the road to my friendly neighborhood auto parts locale and picked up a headlight restoration kit. more If you get the same rig I purchased—the 3M Headlight Restoration Ki t—you’ll also need to purchase a bottle of headlight lens sealant to ensure that nasty old sun can’t undo your hard work with its rays. For some odd reason, the instructions in the kit I purchased mentions that you’ll also need UV sealant, which must be purchased separately… Thanks 3M! Also, you’ll need a drill, a corded drill if at all possible so you’re not being interrupted by dead batteries like I was. To be fair, 3M did recommend I use a corded drill, so maybe I’m being a bit hard on them. As you can see from the picture below, the lens restoration kit worked quite well and can potentially save you from unwanted nighttime driving collisions due to headlight haze. Step 1: Wash Headlights This is really a no-brainer. If you’re going to start sanding your headlight lenses, you need to make sure they are free of dead bugs and whatever else you’ve been driving through on your daily commute. A washcloth, soapy water, and a clean towel work just fine. Dry your headlight lenses well since you’re going to be sanding them soon. Step 2: Apply Masking Tape You’ve no doubt toiled countless hours to keep your vehicle’s coat of paint sleek and shiny. Don’t blow it on some headlight restoration. Apply masking tape on the paint around your headlights so you don’t damage your vehicle’s paint with sandpaper. Apply masking tape thoroughly and liberally for optimal protection. Step 3: Apply P500 Sandpaper & Start Sanding Now let’s get into the nitty gritty, so to speak. Attach the P500 sandpaper to your drill attachment and start sanding your headlights using long slow strokes. Don’t hover over spots for too long as those spots can be hard to buff out later. The goal is to sand all of the surface area evenly so your headlight lenses sparkle when you get to the buffing stage. Sanding unevenly will leave marks on your lenses and make you the laughing stock of your overly critical neighbors. Step 4: Apply P800 Sandpaper & Continue Sanding This finer grit sandpaper will take out the deeper grooves left by the grittier, P500 sandpaper. The same rule applies as before: go slow and even, covering all surface area. This step can be repeated after you do some buffing if you’re not satisfied with the clarity and smoothness of your lenses. Don’t worry, I’ll remind you. Step 5: Start Buffing (and Repeat Step 4 if Desired) Throw on the rubber buffing attachment and fill a spray bottle with water. The buffer must be wet at all times during this step. I recommend wetting the rubber buffer and coating each lens in water before you begin. Same as sanding, use long smooth strokes to remove the smaller marks made by the P800 sandpaper. You’ll notice a white slurry forming on the surface of the lenses. No, your headlights don’t have a bacterial infection. That’s just those tiny particles of plastic left over from sanding. Wipe the lenses regularly with a dry towel and keep buffing until the slurry no longer forms. If you’re noticing that the lenses aren’t as smooth as you’d like, use the P800 sandpaper to repeat step 4, then rebuff each lens. Step 5: Open and Apply Polish This stage makes your headlight’s gleam and invokes irrational jealousy on behalf of my neighbors. Open the polish pouch and rub a thin amount over each lens. Then attach the microfiber polisher and make smooth, even passes over the lenses until no more polish remains. There’s plenty of polish to go around, so you can repeat this step three or four times on each lens. I don’t recommend putting any polish directly on the microfiber attachment since it causes the polish to splatter, and in my case, I had to wash my favorite jeans praying they’d survive the ordeal unscathed. Step 6: Apply Lens Sealant & Display Smugly Skip this step and all of your hard work will be for naught. You’ve removed whatever was left of the UV blocking sealant on your lenses during the sanding process, so you need to apply another layer of sealant to foil the sun’s plans to ruin your beautiful headlights. I sprayed the UV blocker directly on the lenses and slowly rubbed the substance over the lenses in an even layer, allowing the lenses to dry before adding another layer. In all, I applied three layers because I wasn’t about to let mother nature spoil my beauties. Now you have lenses that look as good as they did out of the factory. Take time to drive around your neighborhood flashing your headlights and honking your horn, preferably at 3 a.m. This display of dominance will illustrate your place at the top of the headlight hierarchy and garner you the respect you deserve. Also, no you’ll be far less likely to run over pedestrians during night drives. Additional Video Resources Do you think my method was awful? Fine. My feelings are deeply hurt and I’ll likely never recover. Check out these methods instead:

A group of Soldiers assist the driver in pushing his Jeep out of the mud  Oct. 4, 1944. (Courtesy of the George C. Marshall Foundation) In 1940 things weren’t exactly peachy in Europe and Southeast Asia. Hitler had invaded Poland, Norway, and by June that year, most of western Europe. Japan had invaded China and would soon bomb Pearl Harbor before spreading its tentacles over southeast Asia. During World War I, the U.S Military mainly relied on inefficient gas-powered vehicles and horses for scouting and transporting troops and weapons. By constantly pestering the Army at their offices and cocktail parties, a persistent car company lobbyist was able to convince military brass that his company could design and build the light-weight, all-wheel-drive vehicle they had dreamed of for decades. more Thus, the Jeep was conceived. A Determined Car Salesman Author’s Note: The inception of the Jeep is often misreported. Writer and historian Bill Spear contributed greatly to this article and helped me set the record straight. If you’re a Jeep junkie, I highly recommend checking out his thoroughly researched book, War Baby: The True Story of the Original Jeep. For additional information see The George C. Marshall Foundation, which graciously provided photos and further context for the creation of the Jeep. With war on the horizon, the timing was perfect for a lobbyist and salesman, Charles H. “Harry” Payne, who had been hired by American Bantam Car Company to find work for the manufacturer in Washington D.C. American Bantam, formerly American Austin, was flat broke from lackluster vehicle sales in the 1930’s and was hoping to secure government manufacturing contracts to keep its doors open. Payne, a retired Navy pilot and Commander, was hired to seek airplane part contracts, but also, on his own volition, saw an opportunity to obtain a government contract from the Army Quartermaster Corps (QMC) to design and build a lightweight, four-wheel-drive reconnaissance car based on the tiny Bantam civilian cars. As far back as 1933 the Infantry and QMC had bought and tested Bantam trucks to be evaluated for scouting purposes, but despite the yearned-for small size and weight, they just didn’t make the cut. The 1,200 pound trucks were simply not powerful or tough enough for use in combat, had narrow tires, and were only two-wheel drive. Not one to give up easily, Payne promised the Infantry that a stripped down, hopped up, four-wheel-drive recon car could be built from the existing Bantam trucks. Payne continuously harassed military officials about a nonexistent four-wheel drive Bantam design that could replace horses, motorcycles, and half-ton trucks for reconnaissance purposes. He was hawking a vehicle that didn’t exist, and the customer (the Infantry) was lapping it up. QMC, who had real automotive engineers on board were skeptical to say the least and considered Payne an “obnoxious pest” with an inferior product. Payne eventually worked his way to the top of the military chain-of-command and secured a meeting with Major Walter Bedell Smith, personal aide to George C. Marshall, the legendary American who served as Army Chief of Staff during WW2, then Secretary of State and Secretary of Defense under President Truman. Smith liked Payne’s idea and Marshall pushed Smith to take action in their struggle to practically build an Army from scratch, since America’s military had fallen into a sorry state in the years after WW1. The renowned leader backed his subordinate in his efforts and, ignoring the chain of command, let Smith send a committee of several high-ranking officers to visit Bantam’s factory in Butler, Pa, to evaluate their ability to produce the wonder vehicle and work out the details of a design roughly based on the Payne/QMC idea of a hot rod Bantam. It was at this meeting that Payne’s promises met the realities of physics, and the hard task of designing and building the vehicle fell to Bantam’s factory manager and chief engineer Harold Crist to make good on the Infantry’s vehicle daydreams. After about a month of back-and-forth between the QMC and Bantam, the Army, over Bantam’s objections about weight and power, developed specs for their four-by-four war machine: -four-wheel drive -two-speed transfer unit -85 foot-pounds of torque -be able to carry 660 pounds, including a machine gun and three passengers -fold-down windshield -3 to 50 mph speed range -1,300 pound weight limit Crist knew that the vehicle the Army was specifying was not possible to build. He also knew the four-wheel drive had to be built from scratch, and made the absolutely key decision to ignore the Army weight specifications, instead focusing on performance. Bantam thought it had been working under an exclusively negotiated contract arrangement with the QMC and given them all of their expertise in small car construction developing the specifications. They were shocked when the QMC informed them that the bid would be a competitive one and the specs and drawings they had helped create were sent out to 135 American manufacturers. Only three manufacturers responded: Bantam, Willys-Overland, and Ford. QMC made it clear they preferred Ford, but Payne had remained persistent in his advocacy for Bantam. The race was on to submit a formal design and bid by July 22, 1940, which put the penniless and almost staffless Bantam at an extreme disadvantage. General Marshall is shown in a Jeep with Generals Clark, Devers, Barr, Coulter, and Gerow on a trip to Fifth Army. June 18-19, 1944 Italy (Courtesy of the George C. Marshall Foundation) The Jeep Dream Team Crist, a race car builder, had already begun the layout of the recon car the old-fashioned way, by chalking out a design on the factory floor, and he had identified several engine and other component options: anything he could do without spending money. He was laying out a car identical in appearance and dimensions to the drawings and specs he had helped develop for the QMC bid documents. When Crist completed the pilot car, it looked exactly like the drawing but it was far more robust, powerful, and yes, heavier. Not only would the bid require some basic formal drawings of the car Crist was laying out, if they won the bid, highly detailed plans to build the car were required to be submitted with it, literally thousands of drawings down to the nuts and bolts. A company like Ford employed plenty of men at drafting tables to do such work but Bantam had no engineering department or staff. That’s when Karl Probst, an independent engineer from Detroit, was persuaded to sign on as nominal head of the project. Probst did a fine job of what he was hired to do and produced drawings sufficient to win the bid, and over the course of the build, put down on paper what Crist and his crew developed on the floor. The work sessions that followed, of Crist and his crew, and Probst with his crew for both design and build were marathon and remain legendary in automotive history. Crist completed the “pilot car” and Probst was able to complete it’s blueprint, cost calculations, supplier specs, and the required bid forms in a breathtaking 49 days. At the bid opening, Ford decided to sit out and see what its competitors submitted, and Willys-Overland submitted an incomplete bid. Bantam submitted plans from which an actual car could be built, but Payne, dauntless in his persistence, told them to lie about the 1,850 pound weight. As the old adage goes: it’s easier to ask forgiveness than permission. However reluctantly, QMC had no choice but to approve the Bantam design. Approval of the contract was the last act of the Army, Infantry or QMC. Nearly two months later on Sept. 21, 1940, Probst and Crist stood proudly next to the first completed Bantam Reconnaissance Car, or BRC, considered the first Jeep. Only briefly driven and completely untested, the BRC engine was broken in with a drive from Butler to Baltimore 250 miles away. It was delivered for testing at Camp Holabird motor depot in Maryland on Sept. 23, 1940, thirty minutes before the contract deadline. Testing the First Jeeps One of the first military men to drive the prototype at Camp Holabird, Army Major Herbert Lawes, said the new four-wheel drive would certainly “make history.” The vehicle was an immediate and stunning success and still stands as one of the most elegant industrial designs in American history. Word spread up the Army chain of command and into the private sector. QMC called Ford and Willys, telling them the BRC was exactly the car they wanted. The rest of the Jeep story pretty much involves the two companies taking advantage of Bantam’s work with the QMC. The testing at Holabird Motors was intense: 50,000 miles in 30 days with 24-hour testing. The BRC did 200 miles of laps all night and all day and was driven off a loading dock at 40 miles an hour. The BRC’s ability to tackle tough terrain and withstand severe abuse left several Army officers floored. The chief test driver, Captain Eugene Mosely called it the best prototype ever submitted at Holabird. Throughout testing, QMC engineers relayed adjustments and modifications to the pilot car back to Bantam in Butler, Pa, but it was clear well before the 30 days were completed that the manufacturer would get the contract for the 70 additional pilot cars required for further field testing. In late September and October of 1940, Crist was in the Butler, Pa, factory already racing to meet the deadline to produce those cars in just two months. And deliver he did, including eight four-wheel steer variations. These 1940 Bantams are referred to as “prototypes”, but even the pilot car had been called a “Jeep” the first week of its test. As far as the recognizable name goes, “Jeep” was a common slang term used in the 1930’s and early 1940’s to describe an odd vehicle, new army recruit, or foolish person. The 70 prototypes were sent to camps and forts all over the country and the timeless love affair between the Jeep and the GI began with dozens of variations and weapons adaptations being tried and tested, including attempts to mount a 75mm cannon in the back seat. With field testing complete, the QMC gave BRC blueprints to Willys and Ford, and access to the Bantam pilot car for inspection. Top military brass asked Bantam’s competitors to modify, build, and submit their own pilots which they did in November 1940, with Ford submitting the “Pygmy” and Willys the “Quad”. While QMC’s treatment of Bantam may seem unfair, war loomed on the horizon and the military was responsible for securing the best performing, cheapest machine they could mass produce in a short time. Eventually contracts for 1,500 prototypes were handed to all three companies and these became the 1941 BRC, the Ford GP, and the Willys MA. A handful of these cars still remain and are highly sought after by collectors. Due to bureaucratic shuffling, QMC delayed moving forward for a year while the Infantry and Cavalry were screaming for Jeeps, any Jeep. Military heads exerted pressure on QMC, telling them to order some Jeeps fast, and Ford’s political enemies in FDR’s administration ensured that the bid would be a competitive one. QMC declared that, although different in strengths and weaknesses, any of the three prototype Jeeps would be fine to work with. Willys somehow submitted a bid far below even what the gargantuan Ford could manage and landed the contract. Despite Willys winning the bid Ford, with QMCs help, managed to wind up building over half of the WWII jeeps (the GPW) which had interchangeable parts with the Willys MB. Having lost its grip on the big contract, Bantam faded away as a car company, but the manufacturer lived on building trailers for the Jeeps it had created. Bantam built over 100 thousand of them, many still seeing service today. It made torpedoes for our British allies, one of which reportedly sank the Bismark, and also aircraft landing gear and many other manufactures. This giant production effort certainly proved that the factory was not “too small” to have produced at least some portion of the hundreds of thousands of Jeeps eventually ordered. Though Bantam fathered the Jeep, it wasn’t their destiny to build them. 87th Infantry Division crossing the Rhine with a Jeep. March 27, 1945 Germany (Courtesy of the George C. Marshall Foundation) The Jeep Hits the Battlefield Because they were in existence the Ford and Bantam prototype Jeeps were among the first weapons shipped to the Allies in Lend Lease purchases. It is said that Bantam was not only the first Jeep, but the first one to be used in combat in North Africa. Others were sent to Russia where they are spotted in photos at Stalingrad and the Japanese captured a BRC in the Philippines, sending it to Tokyo for reverse engineering. “The present transport … is more or less confined to roads, which means they are highly vulnerable targets for dive bombing or machine gun,” General George C. Marshall wrote in a 1942 memorandum to General Dwight D. Eisenhower. “On the contrary, the little jeep … in bombing attacks can take to the woods with greater rapidity than foot troops or even cavalry.” As a result of the Jeep’s battlefield performance, Eisenhower, later Supreme Allied Commander during WW2, requested that hundreds be sent to England. In total, about 650,000 Willys MBs and Ford GPWs were built, 277,896 by Ford and 359,489 by Willys. Each branch of the military used the mythical four-by-four to carry .30 or .50 caliber mounted guns for combat and reconnaissance, transport medical casualties, fight fires, lay cables, and even drive on railroad tracks with modified tires. During the war, the MB and GPW earned a solid reputation for their reliability, adaptability, and effectiveness over rough terrain. The creation of the world’s most recognized four-by-four and outcome of humanity’s greatest war was partly decided by a stubborn car salesman and a handful of hard working Americans in a warehouse in Pennsylvania. The graphic below illustrates the evolution of the Jeep from the mud and mire of the battlefield to the suburban garage. This graphic only covers models that started production in the 1940s and 1950s. The Jeep website has a very thorough overview of each Jeep ever made. Also, check out our tour of Mike Hasselbauer's 1948 Willys-Overland Truck. (Video below)

Boise transplant Diana DeJesus probably knows more about the City of Trees than most natives. That’s because for the past four years, she’s delved into the city’s happenings on her popular Instagram page, Boise Bucket List, which boasts nearly 58,000 followers. DeJesus covers some great outdoor and culinary activities to make your upcoming weekend one to remember. more Sights to See Freak Alley This Boise art staple began in 2002, when a local artist, Colby Akers, painted the back side of Moon’s Cafe, located on Idaho Street. Since then, it has grown enormously, stretching from the 8th to 9th Streets along the alleyway and into an open lot between Even Stevens Sandwiches and Meriwether Cider. Patrons of 10 Barrel Brewing and Even Stevens Sandwiches have an excellent view of the empty lot portion of the outdoor gallery from their patios, and the murals are updated regularly to provide a fresh artistic experience. Table Rock Hikers and sightseers alike love this fixture of Boise’s majestic scenery. A 3.7 mile loop access trail starts near the Old Idaho Penitentiary and leads visitors through dusty switchbacks up to a 60-foot cross, which was erected in 1956 by the Jaycees Club, and is illuminated during nighttime. Once hikers reach the top, or table, they are greeted by an amazing panoramic view of Boise and the nearby foothills. Visitors can stop for a rest, dangle their feet over the ledge, and try to point out their houses or apartments among the hustle and bustle of the city. Table Rock also features sandstone left over from Lake Idaho, an ancient, massive body of water that covered what is now Boise for roughly 10 million years until about two to four million years ago. Boise Depot Back in the 1920s, when train travel was still common in Idaho and the greater west, New York architects designed the Spanish-style Boise Depot, which sits on the bench overlooking Capitol Boulevard and downtown Boise. This city fixture claims a 96-foot bell tower, 3,542 square-foot multi-story atrium with 44-foot ceiling, six arched entrances, outdoor gardens with a koi pond and benches for relaxing and enjoying the sights. The depot was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1974, and in 1993 the building underwent a $3.4 million renovation to restore it’s beautiful beige interior and red, blue, and yellow trim. In 1997 the last train to leave the station was a Seattle-bound Amtrak passenger train. Train enthusiasts can check out Big Mike, a Mikado-style steam engine built in 1920 by the American Locomotive Company. The old steamer used to run along Union Pacific’s mail line from North Platte, NE, to Fruitland, Idaho. The engine is parked on tracks on the east side of the depot. Camel’s Back Reserve Trails Located on Boise’s north end, these biking, walking, and hiking foothill trails are beloved by Boiseans for their scenic beauty and easy access. Trails in Camel’s Back Reserve and Hull’s Gulch provide a fun outdoor experience regardless of a visitors exercise level. The Camel’s Back Park Chute, essentially a large stone stairway, provides easy access from the park to the large network of trails that lead high into the hills. If you bring the family pooch, be aware that leashes are required for dogs at all times. Visitors may catch a glimpse of wildlife like birds, fox, and deer on the trail. During spring and summer, the trails are surrounded by beautiful green native grasses, riparian trees, and shrubs. If you decide to check out the trail system, be sure to stay on designated trails to prevent soil erosion and damage to the local ecosystem. Culinary Opportunities 8th Street Downtown If you’re looking for a variety of eats and drinks, head downtown and take your pick of restaurants along 8th Street. From German fare to Mexican vittles, the stretch of 8th Street between Main Street and West Bannock Street offers a wide variety of sumptuous meals and refreshments. Westside Drive In For a 1950’s-themed classic Boise diner experience, head over to the West Side Drive In on State Street or off of Parkcenter Boulevard. They offer classic American food like shakes and burger and are famous for their ice-cream potato, a treat you’re obligated to experience as a Boise visitor or resident.

Having a home gym is a convenient way to stay consistent with your workout routine, especially if your schedule makes it hard to make a daily run to the gym. But purchasing equipment for a home gym can be expensive, about $2 per pound. That’s why we (my girlfriend and I) decided to build our own sets of 35, 45, and 65 pound concrete free weights. The weights turned out great, and I’ve been using them daily. more I did learn that shortening the grips of each set would make them easier to balance, and I’m also planning to coat each dumbbell end with more rubber sealant since some of the weights have crumbled slightly on some sections. Also, I should have mixed the concrete more thoroughly because proper mixing means less cracking and crumbling down the road. Overall, we spent $120 on the weights, not including the time we spent building them. The same set of premade weights goes for around $300, so we saved about $180. Note: A list of materials, costs, and YouTube video influences will be listed at the bottom of this article. Step One: Calculating Dimensions and Picking Materials To avoid mistakes and ensure the dumbbells were the correct weight once finished, we used this handy online concrete calculator, specifically the circular slab or tube section. Here are the calculations for one side of each set of weights: 35 Pounds 45 Pounds 65 Pounds Picking Handle Material To mimic the grip size of a standard olympic barbell, which ranges between .98 inches and 1.26 inches, we decided to purchase a 1-inch-by-10-feet schedule 40 PVC pipe. This PVC has enough tensile strength to accommodate all of our weight sizes and can be manipulated with heat so we could attach galvanized spikes to help bind to the concrete on both ends of the weights. Molds for Barbell Ends To save money, we looked around the house to find plastic containers that could serve as molds for the ends of each weight, but nothing we found could provide the adequate dimensions for the barbells we wanted. Instead, we purchased 8-inch-by-48-inch concrete mold tubes that could be easily measured and cut to our specifications based on the calculations above. Reinforcement Materials After watching similar YouTube concrete weight videos, we decided to insert ⅜-inch-by-6-inch galvanized steel spikes into the ends of each PVC cut, then stack ½-inch-by-6-inch rebar cuts on the spikes for extra reinforcement. Concrete The type of concrete needed for this project must bind well and not easily crack or chip, so we decided to go with 80-pound bags of premixed fiber-reinforced concrete. The fiber reinforcement, along with the galvanized spikes and rebar, should make the barbells last longer. Sealing Material Rubber coated barbells are the standard at most gyms. The rubber coating allows the weights to be dropped, offering protection to toes, ankles, and the floor. While our weights do not have the same rubber coating thickness of standard dumbbells, the rubber spray we selected will help keep the weights from chipping and degrading with daily use. Plastic Matting My beautiful girlfriend allowed me to use her garage space to construct the weights, and we wanted to make sure we weren't staining walls or the concrete floor, so we purchased a 10 foot by 25 foot, 3.5 millimeter plastic sheet to act as a staging area for the project. Now that we have covered the measurements and materials, let’s get started. Step Two: Measuring and Cutting Rebar, Spikes, and PVC To fit inside the concrete molds, we measured and made 6-inch cuts of the galvanized spike and rebar pieces. We used a miter saw with a steel cutting blade we already had in our toolbox. If you don’t have access to any cutting tools, most hardware stores will cut rebar for you. Call ahead to see if your local hardware store offers these services. After that was completed, we measured sections for each weight set and used a standard blade to cut the PVC sections. (You can use a hacksaw for this part) We intended to have 7-inch grips on each PVC cut, but we somehow muddled the measurements and ended up with 8-inch grips instead. Step Three: Reinforcing the PVC Cuts With the old eyeball method, we cut two holes on the ends of each PVC cut where we could insert the galvanized spikes and attach rebar for extra reinforcement. Once the holes were drilled, we applied heat to each PVC end with a blowtorch and then inserted two spikes. After the PVC cooled, we attached the rebar to the spikes using extra zip ties we had in our toolbox. Step Four: Cutting the Molds Using a tape measure, black marker, and rubber band, we measured the correct lengths for each barbell end and cut the cardboard mold using a boxcutter. The process took more time and forearm strength than we anticipated, and a hacksaw would have worked better. Step Five: Mixing Concrete and Setting Molds This part made us sweat, and it could have been far easier if we’d purchased a cheap drill mixing attachment. Instead, we mixed the fiber concrete in a five gallon bucket with a standard garden trowel. We added the concrete mix slowly to water, ensuring that it was the correct consistency. If you’re not sure what consistency is needed, the concrete bags have specific mixing instructions printed. Next we placed the rebar and spike reinforced ends into their proper molds and filled them with concrete, tapping them to release air bubbles.We also used a tape measure and level to center the PVC in each mold. After about 24 hours, we removed the concrete molds and set the other end of the reinforced PVC into the proper mold and propped them against the wall so they wouldn’t fall over while setting. After removing the molds, we allowed the weights to cure for another 24 hours before I started the next step. Step Six: Sealing Weights and Taping Grips Using a rubber spray, we applied three coats to the concrete on each barbell, specifically the corners and edges that are prone to cracking and crumbling. After the rubber coating had dried completely, we covered the handle grips with a few rolls of electrical tape we had lying around. This was a cheap and easy way to provide more grip during daily exercises, and can be reapplied anytime in the future. What We Would Have Done Differently We are pleased with the final result of our homemade dumbbells, but if we could somehow travel back in time, we would have made the handle grips smaller and applied more rubber coating to each end. We can still buy and apply more rubber coating, so it's not the end of the world, and we plan to use the weights on rubber matting so they don’t chip and crack when we set them down. The idea for the weight came from watching several YouTube videos, and it was fun creating our own design from materials found at any hardware store. Materials List - 1 inch by 10 foot Schedule 40 PVC (1): $3.75 -11 ounce Plasti-Dip Spray Cans (4): $23.92 - ⅜ inch by 10 inch HP Galvanized Spikes (24): $16.32 - ½ inch by 10 foot Rebar (2): $13.94 -80 Pound Premixed Fiber Concrete Bags (4): $28.80 -8 inch by 48 inch Cardboard Concrete Molds: $22.80 -HDX 3.5 millimeter 10 foot by 25 foot Plastic Sheet (1): $10.98 Total: $120.51 YouTube Influences: